- February 22, 2016 at 10:05 pm #11188
1995 Dodge Dakota 4×4 V6. I’m getting a loud knock when I go over bumps and dips on the paved roads/dirt roads, on the driver side tire area only. Bad shock?
RE: Could be a shock, or possibly a bad ball joint or broken sway bar link. I’d recommend checking the entire front end over since this can be a safety issue. Tie rod ends, etc, all can make a knocking type noise over bumps when they are bad. Even a loose hub bearing. Check mounts too.
- April 6, 2016 at 10:21 pm #13737
Ok I checked the tie rod end on the driver side and I moved it and twisted back and forth and it has a really lose feeling to it. Is that normal and is it suppose to be snug? The tie rod sleeve looks bad also. Might be the reason for the knock?? Thanks.
- April 6, 2016 at 10:23 pm #13738
The tie rod end should feel pretty tight. To check it properly you need to jack the truck up and grab the tire and try to move it back and forth, with your hands in the 9 and 3 positions. If it’s loose, you feel the play in it by doing that.
- February 22, 2016 at 10:08 pm #11192
1995 Dodge Dakota SLT Club Cab 4×4 – hesitation, stalling,spark plugs are black. Then eventually you can’t start the truck until cooled down. A certified mechanic replaced entire fuel pump assembly, cleaned spark plugs, truck still doing same thing. Plugs black again, strong odor of gas in engine compartment and oil. Can someone help?
- April 6, 2016 at 10:34 pm #13743
The truck is obviously running extremely rich. You seem to be getting enough fuel, but the problem is that you’re not burning it off like it should be. I usually don’t recommend cleaning spark plugs. I would first replace all of the spark plugs with OEM replacement parts. Probably could use a major tune up as well, as you could have ignition components breaking down under load. The would mean replacing spark plug wires, cap and rotor if equipped, pcv valve, air filter, fuel filter, etc. You may want to check for a clogged exhaust, or bad catalytic converter. When an engine is running rich for an extended period of time, that will usually fry the converter.
- February 22, 2016 at 10:15 pm #11199
I have a ’96 Chrysler LHS w/ ABS. The half shaft went bad and I am trying to replace it. I cannot get the old shaft out. Everyone tells me it will just pop out with a snap of a pry bar there is a snap ring that has to break. I guess I am not a good snapper because the shaft will not move. Does the old shaft come out completely or does it separate at the joint near the transmission. I can’t screw this up way over budget due to all the parts have to replace which were removed with a saw and drill (lots of rust).
Thanks for any help you can give.
- April 6, 2016 at 10:38 pm #13745
You need to get the whole shaft out of the transmission. Yes, it is just held in with a snap ring, but they tend to bend and get wedged in preventing removal. Need to pry evenly for your best chance. use 2 pry bars 180 degrees apart and “POP” it out. If it can not be removed, you would need to get into the trans, which is a bad deal.
- August 14, 2017 at 10:31 am #16039
The crankshaft on my 2004 jeep grand cherokee is loose. I have tightened it but as soon as I start the motor again the bolt loosens. Any thoughts?
- August 15, 2017 at 10:30 pm #16040
There must be something wrong with the threads on the bolt or in the crankshaft. Remove the bolt, inspect it closely. If any damage or wear, replace it. If it looks OK, check the threads in the crank. If damaged, you will need to run a tap in it to straighten them out.
The other thing you can do is put a few drops of read or blue Loctite on the threads and tighten the bolt. Give it about an hour for the Loctite to dry.