Humming noise from under hood

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    • #16821 Reply
      Keith Nigh
      Guest

      Hi. I just got a 2016 GMC Terrain a few days ago and I get a humming noise like an electrical motor or pump running, coming from under the hood. The noise only lasts for about 5 seconds and then stops with a click. Sometimes it starts with a clicking sound. This happens with the engine and ignition off and even if the engine is cold. It will stop for 1 or more minutes and then repeats again. It is not the electric fan and seems to come from the battery area. It might be happening also when the car is running but I just can’t hear it then. Any thoughts or is this normal?

    • #11180 Reply
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      I have a 94 Silverado k2500 4×4 and the heater, defroster and a/c aren’t working the blower motor is fine, the speeds are all correct.But when i turn any of them on they just blow vent temp air out through the floor its neither hot nor cold, what can be causing these issues.

      RE: Aside from blowing outside air temperature on the floor, can you switch modes so that it blows out the center vents or the defroster? Does changing from full hot to full cold with the A/C on change the temp at all or is it just a heat problem?

      • #13858 Reply
        Protech
        Guest

        Hmm. So it wont switch positions and wont adjust the temperature. Then I would suspect the control panel is bad. But you would need a schematic to do some testing on the outputs of the control panel to be sure.

      • #13857 Reply
        Guest
        Guest

        No ive changed settings to see if it would blow out the defroster and it didnt make any difference it just blows out from the floor and right below the center vents, and no changing it from full hot to full cold doesnt make any difference either, i stumped.

    • #12925 Reply
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      I HAVE A 1997 SILVERADO 4 WHEEL DRIVE K- SERIES TRUCK THAT IS LEAKING POWER STEERING FLUID. AFTER TRYING TO TRACE WERE THE FLUID IS COMING FROM WE’VE CONCLUDED THAT THE SEAL ON THE PS GEAR BOX IS WHERE THE LEAK IS. WE THEN BOUGHT SOME PS ADDITIVE TO FIX SEALS AND LEAKS. SO FAR I CAN’T TELL IF IT HAS HELPED. WHAT NEXT?

      • #16359 Reply
        Anonymous
        Inactive

        The power steering additive probably won’t work. You will have to replace it. If you are referring to the seal on the pitman arm shaft, you will have to remove the arm, then replace the seal.

        You need a special tool to remove the arm. You will probably damage the arm, so you may need to replace it as well. Best to let a mechanic do the job if you have not done this repair before.

    • #12808 Reply
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      1994 Chev. 4×4 Z-71 oil leak below bell housing

      at little hole does all the transfer case and transmission

      have to come out to replace rear main seal or is it easier to pull the motor and replace it that way.

      • #16324 Reply
        Anonymous
        Inactive

        Removing the transmission is the only way to do the job. If by chance there are multiple oil and or coolant leaks on your truck, you may want to remove the engine and reseal the whole engine. I would assume you have a lot of miles on your Chevy.

    • #12927 Reply
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Our suburban was making a clicking sound rhythmically every minute or so from center dash area. Seemed to be coming from behind the electrical inputs. This was noticed when the ignition was off, but continued when we had the car on and drove it for about an hour and 1/2. that was yesterday, today the battery is completely dead. What caused this?

      • #16360 Reply
        Anonymous
        Inactive

        Sounds like you possibly have an actuator for the HVAC system that is shorted. They usually make a clicking sound when they are trying to turn but have reached their limit. It could be shorted and staying on all the time, which is why your battery died out. There are multiple actuators in your system, so you’d really need a technician to look at it in person to find out which one could be bad. A scan of the system may reveal a trouble code that will lead to the problem as well.

        If you have any aftermarket equipment wired into the truck, like an alarm or remote start, or things of that nature, you may want to check those out as well for causing a draw on the battery and killing it. An alarm module will make a clicking sound too if you have one. Just another idea…good luck!

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